When a local coffee store owner mentioned a candlelight festival in Malta, I immediately started researching the tiny island country and its BirguFest Candlelight Festival. Malta is a small country consisting of three islands (Malta, Gozo, and Comino) south of Sicily with stunning coastlines, sun-soaked buildings, and a rich history. The festival itself was a bit of a mystery, lacking even an official website, but the coffee store owner insisted it was well worth the trip. 

As a curious traveler, I peer-pressured a couple friends into joining the adventure and booked my tickets, then packed, measured, and re-measured my bags (seriously, make sure your luggage meets the stringent size requirements if flying Ryanair) before departing out of Dublin Airport.  

A low angle picture of a monument

We landed mid-morning in Malta and drove to Valletta, the capital city, where we were staying. On the outer edge of the city center, fountains and towering architecture welcome you into a bustling plaza lined with coffee shops, restaurant seating that cascades down the streets’ stairs, and vendors selling a variety of goods. We spent the rest of our first day acclimating to our new surroundings, enjoying pizza outdoors, and taking in the sun and lovely weather. 

Along the eastern part of the main island of Malta, the coastline juts in to create several peninsulas. Valletta is located on the most prominent peninsula and faces the “Three Cities” of Malta across its Grand Harbor. Birgu, also referred to as Vittoriosa, is the oldest of these cities. 

Street view of Malta

Staying in Valletta near the ferry terminal was very convenient (and more affordable than staying in Birgu during the festival) to travel to and from Birgu.  

A small boat in the sea

Traditional water taxis (dgħajsas) depart regularly between Valletta and Birgu for €3 one way (cash only) and had extended hours during the festival.  The festival was advertised as two days, Friday and Saturday, but upon arrival in Birgu on Friday, a local resident informed us that the candles would only be lit on Saturday. 

A small boat in the coast

This gave us the opportunity to stroll around the city of Birgu, enjoy the sunset over the harbor, wander into some local shops, and get the lay of the land before the next evening. We also confirmed that no entry fee, ticket, or registration was required to attend the festival the next day. 

A building light up with neon lights in the evening

 
On Saturday evening, we traveled back to Birgu via water taxi to a city transformed by lights and candlelight. Historic buildings, churches, and landmarks remained open after dark and were aglow with lights.  

Candles peeking through a railing

A stage at the town center filled the night air with lively music while local restaurants buzzed with dinner activity. Off the main square, every side street was illuminated with candles and lights of every color, shape, and luminescence.  

Street lights

The evening was a truly enchanting experience, and for anyone with even the slightest photographic inclination (I was using just my iPhone), every home, business, and building was a prime opportunity for incredible photos. 

Candles light up to form the word BIRGU

For a long weekend trip to a sunny paradise in October (which happened to fall right before the start of Reading Week), I would highly recommend a brief jaunt to Malta for some sea views, warm days, and all of the lights at the BirguFest Candlelight Festival.  

Travel Notes: 

  • I am fortunate to have a passport that allows me to freely travel in Europe. Additional visa requirements or travel restrictions may unfortunately apply for other international students.  
  • Shannon Airport offers direct flights to Malta; however, the departure and return times were sporadic and sparse, so we flew out of Dublin. Flying round trip from Dublin to Valletta, Malta, on Ryanair was the cheapest option: roughly €160 for the most basic option, although I opted for a 10 kg carry-on and a reserved seat, which was an extra €30. 
  • Because of our early departure time, we booked a bus ticket on CityLink from Limerick to Dublin Airport (€24 roundtrip with a Young Adult or Student Leap Card – make sure to bring the card with you as they scan it upon boarding). The bus leaves from in front of The Hurlers pub and drops you off at Terminal 1 at Dublin Airport. Double-check the pick-up zone outside of the airport for the return trip back to Limerick. The bus terminal is busy but clearly marked by numbered zones. 
  • We opted to rent a car in order to travel across the island more efficiently (€55 for four days). We did meet other travelers who used public transportation or taxis to successfully navigate the island as well. Of note: Malta also drives on the left side. 
  • Airbnb offered the most affordable accommodation options. We stayed in Valletta for four nights for roughly €47 per person per night. 
  • Costs varied depending on where you were on the island. In the Valletta, one of the more expensive cities, a latte was €3.50 and a Margerita pizza at San Paolo Naufrago (highly recommend) was €10. Dinners ranged from €10-35 in Valletta; although, I’m sure you could spend more or less depending on your preferences. 

Margaret is a graduate student in the Faculty of Education and Health Sciences. She is interested in travel and fully exploring the lovely Irish countryside.

Leave a comment

Trending